Saturday, May 21, 2011

Biking In The City: The Madness & The Beauty


Commuting in Prague is like diving into a cold swimming pool. Read on to find out why.

My friend and fellow cyclist David Murphy takes over the Bike Blog today as he writes about the Bike To Work competition:

I’ve begun to appreciate the madness and beauty of cycling in downtown Prague.

Until now, I’ve avoided as much as possible diving in among the Audis, Škodas, garbage trucks, taxis and other tens of thousands of vehicles that clog Prague’s streets every day, instead seeking out quieter, off-the-beaten-track routes around the city.

But all that changed after my organization, the Environmental Partnership, entered a monthlong competition, Bike To Work, organized by the NGO Auto*mat, and sponsored by, among others, the Environmental Partnership.

The goal is to promote the bike as a means of everyday mobility and prove to city officials that the investments in infrastructure, education and promotion are worthwhile and too little.

I usually commute to work by bike a few times per week, but since the contest started (it runs from April 28 to May 28), I have become an everyday commuter.


Riding through traffic at the Charles Bridge. One of the worst sections in the city.

The contest works like this: Companies are encouraged to put together and register teams of up to five members, who choose a route to work and declare the distance in kilometers from their home (giving at least the street) to their office (address). Contestants submit the number of times that they make the commute (on the honor system).

Each contestant is allowed up to an additional 10 kilometers per day for business meetings or other business-related activities that they travel to by bike. In my case, I ride to school with my children before or after work.

My declared round-trip commute is 26 kilometers from Kobylisy to Strašnice.


My main route comprises dirt trails and small streets (above and below).


The contest is divided between individual leaders and team results, with prizes ranging from an all-paid weekend for two in Copenhagen, the mecca of European cycling, to tickets to the Prague City Festival, to new bicycles.

In this, the inaugural year of the contest, it has attracted 266 teams, including the Office of the Government of the Czech Republic, the Danish Embassy, the Czech National Bank (they have seven teams entered), and nearly 1,000 individuals.

Rest assured that in the cycling world in Prague, democracy is alive and well, as even though we are sponsoring the event we get no special treatment and currently have a tentative hold on 81st place.

So far, Tesco Stores is in the lead with an impressive 3,220 commuter kilometers ridden. Clearly, team members don’t need to use bikes purchased at Tesco.

Prague by bike is a great experience.

I started with my usual route from Kobylisy through Vršovice on Europe’s Most Expensive Cycle Route, through Malešice to Strašnice. But after a week I got bored.

My next route was through Stromovka into the center, up Wenceslas Square, past Muzeum into Vinohrady and down into Strašnice.


Riding up Wenceslas Square early in the morning.

My latest route is down through Karlin along the river to Vyton and then into Nusle to the Slavia stadium and into Strašnice.


The cycle route through Karlin.

Each route offers a different Prague experience. This morning I had a quick breakfast at the farmer’s market at Kubanske namesti (one of the best in Prague). Yesterday, I pedaled down Wenceslas Square and through Old Town, deftly swerving between the cars and tourists.


Breakfast at the farmers’ market at Kubanske namesti.

There are a growing number of cycle lanes in the city, which do provide a certain level of security. But they are poorly designed, located as they are between the parked cars and the main road, or as cyclist friend, Rob Coalson, likes to call it, “in the door zone."

Despite the lack of really good quality infrastructure, Prague is a relatively good city for biking and more and more people are doing it to get around the city. This morning on my commute, I counted 89 cyclists on the streets. In Copenhagen you could count that many at any given intersection, but Prague has better beer.


No comment

After completing the second week and 350 commuter kilometers, I offer the following observations on everyday biking in Prague:

-- On some of the major roads downtown, horse carriages provide an excellent equine shield from cars, as even the most aggressive drivers appear reluctant to hit and kill a horse.


My horse-human shield.

-- Everyday commuting along the same route can be boring and I have started to vary my route and explore more routes through the city.


A bike box on Vinohradska designed to give cyclists a free space ahead of cars.

-- Cycling allows you to see much more detail in the city-scape as well as find new interesting pubs, restaurants and cafes.

-- I think most drivers should be happy with the new cycle lanes being created around Prague as many use them as temporary double parking spaces. One of the worst cycle lanes for this in Prague is Vinohradska between Flora and Želivského.

-- Audi drivers earn their reputation as the most aggressive; always stay clear of an Audi.

Commuting in Prague is like diving into a cold swimming pool. Once you’re in, you find that the water isn’t that bad, but building up the courage to jump takes some effort.

DAVID MURPHY RIDE STATS
Length of rides: 26-30 kilometers
Distance ridden so far in 2011: 790 km


Resources for cycling in Prague and the Czech Republic:

-- Prague By Bike
-- Prague Online Cycle Map
-- Cykloserver
-- Cycling Prague (official page of City Hall, in English)
-- Cycling


My 6-year-old son Liam tried my route when we went to the farmers’ market at Kubanske namesti, very close to my office.


Sign-posting for everyday cyclists to get from one part of the city to another is still weak in Prague, except in tourist destinations.


Setting up the farmers’ market at Na Plavce at the river.


The sign reads “Cyclists Please Ride Through Here Carefully."


Nuselsky Most


A tram at the end stop in Stromovka with the cryptic message, “No Turning Back II”

Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Vote Early, Vote Often!


Shameless plug:

If you're a regular reader of this blog, or even a first-time visitor but you like what you see, why not go over to Crank and vote for me in this year's Crank Honors.

It's your chance to vote for your favorite cycling blogs, in the following categories:

Mountain Bike Blog
Road Blog
Commuter Blog
Cycling Lifestyle Blog
Women’s Cycling Blog
Travel Blog

Grant's Prague Bike Blog is listed in the Mountain Bike Blog category.

You can vote once each day. I'd certainly appreciate your support! Thank you so much!

Monday, May 16, 2011

The Best Biker Bar In The World (Or How To Have A Devil Of A Good Time)


It's said the caves were once used to shelter fleeing religious refugees...


... and a Nazi weapons factory during World War II.

For my 50th birthday, I rode my motorcycle inside a cave. And no, I'm not prematurely senile.

If that wasn't enough, the cave is so large that it has its own roundabout. Oh, and it's also got a bar, where you can ride your motorcycle right up and order a drink.

Allen Harris, the chief of the Expat Bikers Club, had arranged a trip on April 24 to Pekelne Doly (Hell's Mines), in the Český ráj (Czech Paradise) area, north of Prague, between the hamlets of Svitava and Velenice. I think it was around 90 kilometers or so from Prague. You can see the exact location on Google below:


View Larger Map

It was a gloriously sunny day, but not too hot to make wearing the leathers a chore. We had a fantastic ride through the Czech countryside on winding backroads. You can watch a cool video of the ride, with me and my biking buddies, below. It was filmed and edited by Allen:



We didn't quite know what to expect once we got to the cave. In fact, at first, we passed right by it, since it's not exactly well signposted and sits well up off the road.

The day we visited, it was packed with bikers and bikes of all shapes and sizes. Everyone was as seemingly tickled as we were to have arrived at such a playground.

As Allen says, "This is the holy grail of pubs and all bikers must visit it once to call themselves a biker. This place is addictive and the trip will be repeated many times."

Inside, there are sofas and chairs and even a few mattresses thrown on the floor, if you want to spend the night, I guess. (Or maybe do other things.)

According to this website, the caves were used as shelter by fleeing religious refugees in the 17th century, and then later used for sand mining for a nearby mirror factory. It says the area also housed a Nazi weapons factory.

What's funny, though, is that we're all dressed in leather and sporting tattoos and beards and skull rings and such, and we're in the most amazing biker bar imaginable, but most of us are drinking coffee or soda or nonalcoholic beer, since there's zero tolerance in the Czech Republic for drinking and driving. And even if there wasn't, motorcycle riding in the Czech Republic is dangerous enough without having had a few.

It was a great ride and a wonderful way to spend part of my birthday. Thanks to Allen, Sam, Hayden, and Andy for letting me tag along.


Hayden Murray (left), Sam Graham, Andy Schofield, and I soak up some rays at the outdoor tables. It was just too nice to sit inside.


Allen enjoys a tall, cool half-liter ... of nonalcoholic Birell.


Sam remembers the one that got away.


Bikers can drive inside the cave, which features its own roundabout (above).


The bar, in the distance, surrounded in the cave by comfy sofas and chairs.


My Honda Shadow, getting some serious cave time in.

Saturday, May 14, 2011

Renting Bikes In Prague


City Bike, in Prague's Old Town, near the famous Hotel Paříž.

(This post was originally published in April 2008. I have just updated the price list and various other references to reflect the latest info. -- Grant)

One of the most frequently asked questions I receive here at the Home Office in Černý Vůl is about renting bikes in Prague. Where to do it, how much it costs, that kind of thing.

You'd think I'd have written about this topic sooner, but I guess I was just too busy riding my own bike. I have actually rented bikes in Prague, when friends or family have come to visit, so I have had some experience.

In the past few weeks, I've visited Prague's two main bike-rental shops in the city center. Here's what I found. I'll add others if I find any.

As far as currency conversion goes, figure around 16.5 Czech koruny to the U.S. dollar, or about 24 koruny to one euro.

CITY BIKE

I've rented from these guys at least once, and from what I remember had a perfectly pleasant experience.

City Bike is conveniently located in the Old Town, on Králodvorská street 5, very close to Náměstí Republiky (Republic Square).

What are their prices like? Check it out:

First two hours: 300 CZK (TrekK bike: 400 CZK)
Every hour after: 50 CZK (Trek bike 150 CZK)
Maximum all-day price: 500 CZK (Trek bike 600 CZK)
24-hour rental: 650 CZK (Trek bike 750 CZK)


No cash deposit required; you just need to leave some ID. English is spoken.

I was told they also do longer-term rentals, by special arrangement with the boss, I guess.

They offer a two-hour guided tour of the Old Town for 550 CZK. From what I gather, that tour involves a bit of beer drinking and is taken on funny-looking, yellow "cruiser" bikes, which have no gears, pedal brakes and big, soft saddles. This tour only includes Old Town, as you'd need some gearing to make it up to the "castle" area and St. Vitus Cathedral.

There's a separate Prague Castle Ride, for the same price, that lasts 2.5 hours and is taken on the geared bikes.

With each rental you get a helmet, lock, city map, a free bottled soft drink and a 20 CZK discount coupon for the Communist Museum.

They offer Shark and Mongoose mountain bikes for men and women with front suspension and another under the seat and cruiser bikes. They also rent kids bikes and baby seats.

The Trek bikes, for more serious cyclists, require that you leave a credit-card imprint as a deposit. They also offer a tandem bike for rent for 600 CZK for two hours or 900 CZK for all day.


The Shark full-suspension mountain bikes available at City Bike.

They say they were the first bike-rental company in Prague, opening in 2001. It seems hard for me to believe you couldn't rent a bike in Prague before 2001, but what do I know?

They used to offer, for more serious cyclists, an all-day tour to Karlštejn Castle, and a 32-kilometer Grand Bicycle Tour of Prague, but I don't see either of those on their website anymore.

City Bike
Kralodvorska 5
Prague 1
Telephone: 776-180-284
Hours: Daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Website: www.citybike-prague.com
E-mail: info@citybike-prague.com



Praha Bike, very close to Old Town Square.

PRAHA BIKE

I've also rented from these guys before, and also had a great experience. They have an ideal location at 24 Dlouha Street, just a few steps from Old Town Square.

The bikes they rent are made for them -- 21-speed mountain hybrid bikes from component parts, so it's not like you're renting a GT or a Specialized or something.

The bikes are sturdy, ideal for Prague cobblestones and local trails, with front suspensions. They also rent out bike seats (70 CZK per day) and trailers (250 CZK per day) for kids, as well as tandem bikes and kids bikes. They also have long-term rentals, insurance, and even bike delivery, for a fee.

Here's a breakdown of some of their prices. Prices include a helmet, lock, and a basic cycling map and recommendations of where to ride. English is spoken.


Four-hour rental:
360 CZK
1-day rental: 590 CZK
2-day rental: 1,100 CZK
3-day rental: 1,530 CZK
4-day rental: 1,890 CZK
6-day rental: 2,400 CZK
7-10 day rental: 380 CZK per day

Deposit: 1,500 CZK for one-day rentals, 3,000 CZK for multiday rentals.

Payment: Cash only for rentals, credit card imprint for deposit.

Praha Bike also organizes guided tours of the city, as well as a guided trip to Karlštejn Castle (1,290 CZK per person), with a train journey on the return.

My gut feeling is that Praha Bike is a little more serious about their cycling.

Praha Bike
Dlouha 24
Prague 1
Telephone: 732-388-880
Hours: Open daily 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Website: www.prahabike.cz
E-mail: info@prahabike.cz


WHERE TO RIDE IN PRAGUE

As for nice rides that begin in the city center, from both of these cycle shops it's easy enough to make your way to Letensky sady, a lovely park with many cycling paths that overlooks the city. And from there, it's an easy ride over to Stromovka Park, an old royal park that also boasts lots of car-free cycling lanes.

Here's a ride that Daisy and I recently did that's pretty perfect for those riders starting out in the city. Just head to Stromovka park, cross over the river to the Prague Zoo, and then connect with the bike path that I mention.

Just be careful -- Czech drivers are notoriously bad, and don't respect the rights of cyclists. If you're new to Prague and can cycle where there are no cars, do it. Letna and Stromovka are perfect for that.

Happy trails.

Tuesday, May 10, 2011

Rolling On The River


This is what it's all about.

Hard to believe how little I've ridden so far this year, a combination of a crazy schedule, bad weather (it snowed out my way on May 3!), bad timing, and bad luck.

But the gods (and the sun) were shining on me -- and on Daisy, too -- on Mother's Day, May 8, so we decided to take advantage of the fortuitous circumstances and head out on the bikes.

From our house in Černý Vůl, this is really a lovely little ride -- mostly, if not all, flat; mostly cycle paths free of cars; and with ample opportunities to pull over for a cold beer.

Even if you don't live out in the middle of nowhere, like we do, and you're starting out from somewhere in the city, it's still perfect. Just catch up with the route near the Prague Zoo, cycle north, take the ferry across to the west side of the Vltava in Klecany, as we did, then cycle back toward Prague. It couldn't be any easier, or prettier.

On our trip, we cycled from Černý Vůl to Únětice to Roztoky, and then headed toward Prague 6 along the Vltava -- partly on roads, partly on a wide sidewalk that hugs the western shore. At Podbaba, we rode the charming little ferry across to the east side of the river (our metro passes are honored on the ferry, believe it or not), where we immediately felt the need for liquid refreshment.



There seem to be these mom-and-pop beer/sausage stands every few hundred meters on the east side of the Vltava. We enjoyed a delicious half-liter of Bohemia Regent for 22 CZK (or about $1.30). So far this year, that qualifies as my cheapest half-liter, although I thought I spied a half-liter of Staropramen for 20 CZK along the same route. But then again, it's Staropramen.

Approaching Klecany, we passed a swampy area, where the frogs were in full song:

Listen!

We cycled north, mostly on the smooth, immaculately paved cycling path along the riverbank. Which sadly deteriorates after a few kilometers into a rough stone road that looks -- and feels -- as if it dates from Roman times. I wish the city -- any city -- would get its act together and complete the cycle path to Klecany. It's obviously popular. The path was clogged with walkers and hikers and roller-bladers and cyclists.

In Klecany, we grabbed another beer while we waited for another ferry to take us back across to Roztoky, from whence we retraced our route back home.

Not a long trip. Not a difficult trip. Simply an enjoyable trip.

RIDE STATS
Length of ride: 27.5 km
Average speed: 15.3 kph
Maximum speed: 36.1 kph
Time on the bike: 1.47.11
Pivo Index: 2
Distance ridden so far in 2011: 119 km



The beautiful path between Únětice and Roztoky.


Still no sign of reconstruction at the dearly departed Koliba, our wonderful forest hideaway that burned to the ground a few years ago...


... and which is right next door to the Hotel Maximilian, apparently a famous hotel and restaurant in its day but which also burned down many years before. Coincidence?


A wide walkway along the highway makes cycling south from Roztoky to Prague relatively safe, despite the traffic and the trains.


This cute ferry is actually part of the Prague public transportation network and will take your bike across for no extra charge.


There's a rubber duck on the flag. Just thought I'd point that out.


Soaking in the scenery.


This grizzled guy has been guiding the ferry across the Vltava from Klecany to Roztoky ever since I can remember. I wonder how many crossings he's logged? And how many cigarettes he's smoked?


One of the pubs in Klecany that caters to cyclists boasts this communist-era monument to the proletariat.

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